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Beyond the gorillas
Nyungwe Forest, in the south-west, has a canopy walkway suspended above the treetops and habituated chimpanzee groups. Akagera, on the Tanzanian border, is a full Big Five park again after a decade of rhino and lion reintroductions.
Lake Kivu sits between the two — a soft, warm, bilharzia-free lake for a couple of nights of doing nothing at all.







